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Manri Gonpa

September 17, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Manri Gonpa, also known as Tashi Manri Gonpa—with Tashi meaning “auspicious”—is located in Tubuga Township, Namling County, Shigatse City. It is the largest Bon monastery in Shigatse and regarded as one of the ancestral monasteries of the Bon tradition. It was also among the earliest Bon monasteries in Tibet to establish the ritual Cham dance tradition.

Buddhist-college
Manri-chortens
Manri-painting
Nyame-footprint
Nyame-pagoda-hall
Nyame-residence
Protector-palace

History

In 1405 AD, the great Bon master Nyame Sherab Gyaltshan (1356–1415), a native of Xiaojin County in Kham, Sichuan, founded Manri Monastery. Since then, the monastery has had 33 successive abbots (Khenchen, meaning “Great Abbot”).

The monastery serves as a place for Bon practitioners to receive ordination, take monastic vows, and pursue study and practice.

According to the Biography of Master Nyame Sherab Gyaltshan, he was a disciple of the 18th lineage-holder Rinchen Lodrö and is regarded as an emanation of Bodhisattva Manjushri.

The main object of worship at Manri Monastery is Master Nyame Sherab Gyaltshan himself. At its height, the monastery housed more than 1,000 monks, with devotees spread across Sichuan, Qinghai, and Tibet.

During the Cultural Revolution in the 1960s, Manri Monastery was destroyed.

In 1959, under the leadership of Khenchen Sherab Lodrö, the monastery decided to disband its monks and send them back to their hometowns. At that time, important relics—including the famous Stupa of Nyame—were hidden underground for safekeeping.

After the Cultural Revolution ended, reconstruction of the monastery began in 1984, and the buried relics were returned to Manri Monastery.

Teaching

Manri Monastery currently has four major colleges and twelve khamtsen (monastic communities by regional origin), with over 500 resident monks. Many monks from various regions gather here to study the Dharma.

Their curriculum includes: the five great treatises of exoteric Buddhism as the foundation, the four principal tantric systems as the core of esoteric practice, and the study of Dzogchen centered on the Mind Section, Space Section, and Instruction Section. The monastery thus fully integrates Sutra, Tantra, and Dzogchen practices, while also preserving traditional religious and cultural heritage.

The method of study is summarized as follows: first, by cultivating the wisdom of hearing and reflection to understand the meaning of both Sutra and Tantra, then through meditative cultivation to internalize them. Once a monk masters the five great treatises of Sutra, the four Tantric systems, the three divisions of Dzogchen, and the five branches of traditional sciences (major and minor), he is awarded the Geshe degree.

As Master Nyame Sherab Gyaltshan once said:
“The foundation of the Dharma is discipline, the essence of the Dharma is Tantra, the supreme culmination of the Dharma is Dzogchen, and the guiding lamp is study and practice.”
These four principles have profoundly shaped the entire Bon community, ensuring that every Bon monastery preserves both the study and practice of the authentic Dharma.

In earlier times, numerous monastics came here, engaging in teaching, debate, writing, and study of Bon’s Sutra, Tantra, and Dzogchen. In their eyes, Manri Monastery became the very center of Dharma activity. Consequently, many of the abbots who later emerged from Manri Monastery were revered as supreme masters of the Bon tradition and were honored as Bon spiritual leaders (Dharma Kings).

The main religious activities include: the monthly 29th-day ritual assembly and the 15th-day prayer assembly. In addition, in the “Drubkang” (ritual hall), a protector deity prayer ritual known as the “Twelve Drubpa” is performed once each month according to the Tibetan calendar.

At its height, the monastery housed over 1,000 monks, with a lay following spread mainly across Sichuan, Qinghai, and Tibet.

Architecture

Situated at an altitude of 4,700 meters, Manri Monastery is built against the mountainside.

Historically, the monastery was divided into four branches—Upper, Middle, Lower, and Peripheral—along with numerous khamtsen.

It was once home to six great hereditary lineages—Zhie, Xi, Xin, Ba, Me, and Qiong— which produced a total of sixteen great lineage-holding Dharma Kings.

The monastery also enshrines important relics, including the stupa of Nyame Sherab Gyaltshan (Nyame Stupa).

Procedure for Electing the Dharma King

The successive masters of Manri Monastery are not only the abbots of the monastery itself but also the representatives presiding over the entire Yungdrung Bon tradition. For this reason, the examination for selecting the Dharma King is extremely rigorous.

According to the prophecy of Master Nyame Sherab Gyaltshan: aside from local candidates, any Geshe scholar may participate in the examination and has the possibility of ascending to the throne of the Manri Dharma King.

The examination process is as follows:

  • After thoroughly mastering the five great treatises—Logic (Pramana), Monastic Discipline (Vinaya), Perfection of Wisdom (Prajnaparamita), Madhyamaka, and Abhidharma-Kosha—a candidate becomes eligible to sit for the Geshe examination.
  • Upon receiving the Geshe degree, the candidate must continue advanced study and practice of Tantric systems and Dzogchen, after which he may be entered onto the list of potential candidates.
  • Those on the list are then strictly examined on their discipline and practice, including the vows of Refuge, Pratimoksha, Bodhisattva, and the Four Divisions of Tantra—each of which must be passed through examination.
  • After these examinations, the names of the successful candidates are placed inside a sacred vase. A 49-day retreat is conducted, invoking the protector deity Palden Lhamo to select the true Dharma King.

From Master Nyame Sherab Gyaltshan down to the present master Lhundrub Tenpé Nyima, there have been thirty-three Dharma Kings in succession.

Filed Under: Bonpo Monasteries

Terdrom Monastery

September 16, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Terdrom Monastery, nestled deep in a valley surrounded by towering mountains, it is a peaceful nunnery of the Kagyu tradition of Tibetan Buddhism.

The name Terdrom comes from Tibetan: “Ter” means mine and “drom” means hidden beneath—together signifying “a place where minerals lie underground.”

21-Tara
Achi-Chudron
Jhopa-Jetan
Lodor
Medicine-Buddha
North-Guardian-King
Padmasambhava
Sakyamuni
Shantarakshita
The-assembly-hall
The-main-building
The-main-hall
Trisong-Detsen
Guru Tsekye Dorje
Tsringma protector
Vajrasattva

A Living Nunnery

Today, the monastery is home to around 105 nuns, the oldest being 87 years old. Their daily life follows a rhythm of spirituality and service: mornings are spent chanting scriptures and gathering firewood, while afternoons are devoted to welcoming visitors—boiling water, offering seat cushions, and renting out simple rooms. Outside, wind- and water-powered prayer wheels spin endlessly, while vibrant prayer flags bring color to the quiet valley.

Spiritual Heritage

Terdrom is closely linked to Drigung Monastery. When Drigung was first established, monks had a place to study and practice, but nuns did not. To fill this need, a nunnery was built here on Terdrom Mountain.

The site’s history stretches back to the 8th century, when the great master Padmasambhava (Guru Rinpoche) practiced meditation in a natural cave high above the valley at an altitude of nearly 5,000 meters. This cave remains an important pilgrimage site for devotees and spiritual teachers alike.

Sacred Hot Springs

Nearby, the Terdrom Hot Springs are said to have been miraculously revealed by Padmasambhava himself, striking the ground with his vajra over 1,300 years ago. Considered healing and sacred, the springs attract both pilgrims and travelers seeking relaxation.

A Holy Land

Terdrom is revered as one of the Seven Holy Sites of Jambudvīpa in Tibetan Buddhism. It is also closely associated with Yeshe Tsogyal, Padmasambhava’s consort and one of Tibet’s most important female masters. Her incarnations are believed to continue appearing here, with the current recognized incarnation, Tenzin Chodron, practicing on the mountain slopes behind the monastery.

Cultural Landscape

Together with Drigung Til Monastery, Terdrom forms a unique cultural and spiritual landscape of the Drigung region, whose name means “the land of yaks.” The area belongs to Maizhokunggar County, literally translated as “pasture on the great edge.”

Location

Terdrom Monastery lies in Terdrom Village, Menba Township, in the northern part of Maizhokunggar County, about 140 km from Lhasa and just 7 km southwest of Drigung Monastery. Nestled at an altitude of 4,500 meters, the monastery sits beside the famous Terdrom Hot Springs, making it both a spiritual and natural retreat.

Architecture & Layout

Founded in 1281 AD by the 10th abbot of Drigung Monastery, the site began with a small meditation temple and has since grown into a sacred complex centered around the Assembly Hall, surrounded by more than 60 meditation caves.

The monastery features several important structures:

  • The DeshunGang Ritro, a one-story chapel supported by eight pillars, enshrining Maitreya (Jampa Buddha) and Chakrasamvara (Sri Heruka).
  • Longruo Temple, another one-story hall with six pillars, dedicated to Padmasambhava, Avalokiteśvara, and Shakyamuni.
  • The Main Assembly Hall, a two-story stone-and-wood building with a flat roof, housing a clay statue of Padmasambhava, rare Prajnaparamita manuscripts in gold and silver ink, and vivid murals of great Buddhist masters.

In front of the main hall stretches a wide stone-paved platform leading into the courtyard. To the west are the nuns’ kitchen and administrative offices, while the eastern hillside is dotted with hermit retreats, their ochre-red roofs peeking through the forest—offering seclusion for practitioners in search of deep meditation.

Reaching the monastery is part of the experience: from the hot spring entrance, a short climb of just thirty stone steps brings you to this serene spiritual haven.

Religious Activities

The monastery is managed by nuns and, as a Kagyu nunnery, Terdrom Monastery holds regular religious ceremonies. According to tradition, Padmasambhava once meditated in retreat here, and his practice is closely tied to the legends of the local healing hot springs. Devotees often take part in activities such as welcoming reincarnated lamas, creating a strong spiritual atmosphere.

Terdrom Hot Springs

The Terdrom Hot Springs are about one meter deep, with water temperatures staying around 40°C year-round, hence their nickname, the “Hot Springs.”

In earlier times, the springs served as a bathing place for the nuns and monks of Drigung Til Monastery, as well as a gathering spot for local villagers. With a history of over 1,300 years, they are now also open to visitors.

The springs are entirely outdoors, with pools built from rough stone walls, partially sheltered by simple coverings. The facilities are modest and rustic, blending seamlessly into nature, with a stunning backdrop of snowcapped peaks that remain white throughout the year.

Because they were blessed by Padmasambhava, the Terdrom Hot Springs are revered as one of Tibet’s Four Sacred Springs. The water is crystal clear, allowing visitors to see the exact spot where each bubble rises from underground.

The springs are divided into upper and lower sections:

  • The upper hot springs, located in Terdrom Village, have three pools. One side is fenced with iron rails because of the swift river nearby, which poses a danger if not careful. These stone-built pools are separated for men and women, and bathing is traditionally done nude.
  • The innermost pool is shallower, suitable for soaking the legs and feet. It is smaller in size, with higher temperatures, but is believed to offer stronger healing properties.

The hot springs flow abundantly with varying depths. Scientific studies show they contain sulfur, gypsum, and other minerals beneficial to health. The water is said to help with conditions such as stomach ulcers, tumors, and rheumatic arthritis.

At the bottom of the pools, several bubbling outlets release fresh spring water. The water is clear, odorless, and ideal for bathing.

South of the pools stands a remarkable calcified wall, about 30 meters high, 120 meters long, and 50 meters wide at the base. The river has eroded an opening at its foundation, creating a natural bridge. Across the top runs a fissure about half a meter wide, through which the spring water emerges.

Legends of Terdrom Hot Springs

Though geologically formed by geothermal forces, the hot springs are steeped in legend. One tale tells of an evil spirit who, after Terdrom Monastery was built, tried to destroy it by creating a poisonous spring to flood the temple. The protective goddess of Drigung attempted to stop him by splitting the northern mountain in two, hoping the toxic water would flow away.

At that time, Padmasambhava was meditating in a cave nearby. Seeing her struggle, he decided to help. With his vajra, he struck a hole into the mountain, allowing the poison water to drain away. But as it flowed downstream, it still threatened all living beings. Padmasambhava then performed rituals, placing detoxifying minerals at the bottom of the spring, transforming the poison into healing waters that continue to flow today.

Filed Under: Kagyu Pa Monasteries

Yangri Gang Monastery

September 12, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Yangri Gang Monastery is located in Yangri Gang Village, about 3 kilometers northeast of Nima Jiangre Township, Maizhokunggar County. It is a Drikung Kagyu monastery of Tibetan Buddhism, situated at an altitude of 3,950 meters.

The monastery has a history of about 650 years. At the beginning of the 21st century, it housed more than 50 monks.

Abbot-seat
Amitabha
Azi-Chudrou
Channa-Shrap-Gyuna
Channa-Trapa-Gyuna
Jhopa-Jetan-Gonpo
Maitreya
Milarepa
Naropa
Padmasambhava
Protector-deity
Sakyamuni
Sutra
The-assembly-hall
Thousand-Armed-Guanyin
White-Tara

Architecture

The monastery was founded in the 13th century (around 1339) by Lin Chokyi Jeb, originally as a retreat room at Yangri Gang and a small protective deity shrine with an area supported by only two pillars.

In the 19th century, the main assembly hall and many retreat rooms were added.

The main hall is built of timber and stone, facing south, two stories high, and features a veranda. The veranda, supported by two pillars, is decorated with murals of the Nine Great Guardians. Inside, the principal image is a copper statue of the Drikung Kagyu patriarch Jigten Rinchenpel. The second floor of the main hall contains the living quarters of eminent monks. On the hillside to the north of the main hall, there are 30 monk retreat rooms, built in a uniform style of stone and wood.

The monastery preserves a large number of valuable cultural relics. Within Maizhokunggar County, it is the most influential Kagyu monastery after Drigung Til Monastery.

History

“Yangri Gang” came into being with the eighteenth throne holder of the Drikung Kagyu lineage, Rinchen Phuntsok. His father was Tenpa Gyaltsen and his mother was Sonam Drolma. He was born in 1509. At the age of eight, he became a monk at the Densatil Monastery of the Phagdru Kagyu, receiving the ordination name Rinchen Phuntsok Chokyi Jeb. At sixteen, he studied under the Drikung Kyabgon Gongkar Rinchen. At twenty, he received full ordination and ascended the throne of political and religious leadership at Drigung Til Monastery.

In 1534, Rinchen Phuntsok founded the outdoor monastic assembly of Yangri Gang, and from this time onward the name “Yangri Gang” (meaning “outdoor itinerant dharma gathering”) came into use. He not only created and presided over the Yangri Gang itinerant monastic community but also appointed its Khenpo.

Until the nineteenth Khenpo of Yangri Gang, the community lacked a permanent residence. It was not until the later period of the twenty-fifth throne holder of the Drikung Kagyu, Rinchen Chokdrak, that Yangri Gang Monastery was established in Drolung. Drolung was the estate of Rinchen Phuntsok’s father Tenpa Gyaltsen, who had built a fortress there called Wangdan Podrang.

In 1641 AD, the retreat center of Langje Chudzong, founded in 1624 by the twenty-fourth throne holder, Gönchok Rinchen, was destroyed by enemies from Gyishö and Mongol forces. The sacred statues enshrined there, including that of Buddha Shakyamuni (Tönpa Chokyema), were transferred to Wangdan Podrang in Drolung, where a main hall with 36 pillars was erected. Gönchok Rinchen resided there until his passing, and was later honored with the title “Drikung Shakjung Drolungpa.”

After the establishment of the Ganden Phodrang government, the religious and political influence of the Drikung Kagyu declined. Incidents such as the imprisonment of Rinchen Chokdrak by the Ganden Phodrang caused difficulties for Yangri Gang Monastery. In the Fire Monkey year, Rinchen Chokdrak, while visiting the Fifth Dalai Lama at Drepung Monastery, petitioned both the Dalai Lama and the Desi Sonam Rabten to reorganize Yangri Gang and appoint a Khenpo, warning that upon his death, Yangri Gang would dissolve. Both agreed, though the process was delayed for over a year.

In 1658 AD, the Ganden Phodrang sent Tsang Sobuwa to merge the two itinerant outdoor dharma gatherings into one, appointing Jesé Lama of the Great Dharma Encampment and Jeri Lama of the Small Dharma Encampment as assistants, along with Rangsok Rinchen as teacher, Wen as steward, and various others to positions of responsibility. Afterward, Rinchen Chokdrak dedicated the Drolung manor and estate to Yangri Gang Monastery, and composed The Great Ocean of Yangri Gang Regulations: A Guide to Liberation. Thus Yangri Gang Monastery was formally established, coinciding with the third birthday of the twenty-sixth throne holder, Gönchok Trinle Sangpo, who was brought to Drigung Til.

The twenty-sixth throne holder, Gönchok Trinle Sangpo, created the masks and costumes required for ritual dances and cham performances at Yangri Gang Monastery. The twenty-seventh throne holder, Gönchok Tenzin Chokyi Drakpa, reviewed the monastery’s codes of conduct and discipline. In 1739 AD, he undertook a major expansion, and arranged for the Kangyur and Tengyur scriptures to be enshrined. At this time, the monastery was renamed Tupten Dechen Rejé Ling.

The twenty-eighth throne holder, Gönchok Tenzin Drakpa Dorje, who had participated in the previous expansions, further enlarged the monastery. The twenty-ninth throne holder, Gönchok Tenzin Chokyi Nyima, used resources transferred by Khenpo Karka Chokwang Lhundrup to carry out renovations in 1769 AD. In the Iron Mouse year, Jesé Tenzin Sangpo completed expansions of monk residences, and merged the long-abandoned Yare Retreat Center—originally built by the twenty-eighth throne holder—with Yangri Gang Monastery, restoring it under the new name Mejuk Dechen Ling. The thirtieth throne holder, Pema Jétsun, commissioned a gilt-copper statue of Amitayus; in the Fire Rabbit year, monk Wen Rinchen expanded monastic housing north of the meditation hall.

During the Cultural Revolution in 1960s, the monastery was converted into a military camp of the People’s Liberation Army.

In 1982, elder monks repaired the protector chapel at the Yare Retreat and resumed religious activity.

In 1992, after the PLA withdrew from Yangri Gang, the site was returned to the monastery. Under the leadership of Khenpo Akya Trile Gyaltsen, a new shrine hall with two main pillars and eight smaller ones was built above the former monk residences.

In 1993, Yare Monastery established a common monastic college of the Drikung Kagyu, with Khenchen Gönchok Lhundrup teaching scriptures, and constructed retreat facilities.

The Sixth Palor Rinpoche is the forty-second lineage holder of the Songs of Milarepa within the Kagyu tradition. At the age of seven, he became a monk at Drigung Til, taking refuge vows; at eight, he was recognized by Drikung Kyabgon Chungtsang Rinpoche as the sixth Palor Rinpoche of Yangri Gang Monastery. His father was the second Zen Rinpoche of Drigung Til.

In 2004, during the great Drigung Monkey Year Dharma Assembly, the Sixth Palor Rinpoche and the forty-first lineage holder of the Songs of Milarepa, Lama Tönpa Dondrup—who later became abbot of Drigung Til—jointly participated. From that time, the Sixth Palor Rinpoche began to study the Songs of Milarepa, becoming the forty-second lineage holder.

Filed Under: Kagyu Pa Monasteries

Lo Drowolung Monastery

September 11, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Lo Drowolung Monastery is located on the southern slope of Se Village, Se Township, Lhozhag County, Shannan City, Tibet Autonomous Region, right at the border between China and Bhutan.

It was founded in the early 11th century (around 1041 AD) by the great master Marpa, the founder of the Kagyu School of Tibetan Buddhism. It is considered the birthplace of the Kagyu tradition, the very first monastery of the lineage, with a history of nearly one thousand years. It is also the sacred place where Jetsun Milarepa studied, sought teachings, and practiced under Marpa.

The name Lo Drowolung carries symbolic meaning: “Lo” means “south,” “Drowo” means “the beginning of auspiciousness,” and “Lung” means “prophecy or blessing.” Thus, this is regarded as the place foretold in the guru’s prophetic blessings.

Entrance-sculpture
Guanyin
Lecture-Hall
Mahakala
Marpa
Meditation-site
Norbu-Gyalpo
Padmasambhava
Pagoda
Protector-deity
Sakyamuni
Spiritual-Pagoda
Sutra
Tara
The-assembly-hall
The-Main-Hall

Architecture

Lo Drowolung Monastery is composed of the White Hall, the Red Hall, the Marpa Stupa, the Naropa Retreat Center, the Sky Burial Site, the Auspicious Field (Shun Yuan Tian), and a Mid-mountain Retreat Center, among other structures.

At the foot of the monastery, on a flat slope encircled by prayer stones, lies the Auspicious Field, the very place where Milarepa and Marpa first met.

At the entrance of the monastery, there is a massive sculpture said to depict a vision from Marpa the Great Translator’s dream. At the center stands Mount Kailash, surrounded by representations of the four rivers — the Lion Spring, Elephant Spring, Horse Spring, and Peacock Spring — alongside the sun and moon, corresponding to the Buddhist cosmological view.

Beyond the grand main halls of the monastery, a vast retreat ground stretches across the mountainside. The buildings there are characterized by circular stupa-like rooftops — an architectural style rarely seen in other traditions.

The Marpa Stupa

The stupa consists of five levels:

  • First Level: Originally used for welcoming lamas and preparing daily meals. Today, it enshrines a gilt-bronze statue of Marpa’s wife, Lady Dakmema.
  • Second Level: The meditation chamber of Jetsun Milarepa. It now houses a gilt-bronze statue of him, with murals vividly depicting his legendary life.
  • Third Level: Once the retreat place of Marpa’s eldest son, Dharma Dode. It enshrines his gilt-bronze statue in commemoration.
  • Fourth Level: The meditation retreat of Marpa himself. A gilt-bronze statue of Marpa at the age of twenty-nine is enshrined here, surrounded by numerous other sacred images.
  • Fifth Level: The main image here is Vajrapāṇi (Vajra Empowerment). The statue, also gilt-bronze, is modeled after the life-sized image of the 12-year-old Śākyamuni Buddha in Jokhang Temple — identical in form except for slight differences in scale.

Historical Ups and Downs

During the Cultural Revolution in the 1960s, the main hall, relic stupa, and golden urn of Lo Drowolung Monastery were completely destroyed. Remarkably, the relic stupa itself remained entirely undamaged, preserved as the only surviving sacred relic of the ancient monastery.

The magnificent monastery we see today is the result of two reconstructions and three expansions since 1992, rebuilt from ruins.

In 1992, a yogi from Kham, together with a few monks, came here with nothing but their great vow to restore Lo Drowolung and an unshakable determination to overcome hardships.

For over a decade, they poured immense effort into reconstruction. At that time, since there was no road leading up the mountain, every brick and timber had to be carried up from Se Township by hand. Monks, young and old, toiled tirelessly year after year. Their devotion to the Dharma was reflected in their selfless labor. Despite financial shortages and harsh natural conditions, after five years of hardship, by 1997 they completed the first rebuilding of the White and Red Halls, the Marpa Stupa, and the Naropa Retreat Center.

In 1999, a dirt road from Se Township to the monastery was finally built, allowing materials to be transported without relying solely on manpower.

By 2000, however, the earlier structures were deteriorating. Recognizing the monastery’s vital historical role in Tibetan Buddhism, and with approval from the local government, they undertook a second full reconstruction.

This time, every building was demolished and rebuilt from the foundations, following the exact specifications of traditional Tibetan monastery architecture. With the growing support of devotees, the main halls, retreat centers, Marpa Stupa, and sacred images were restored to near perfection within a few years.

Life of Marpa

The founder of Lo Drowolung Monastery — the great translator Marpa Lotsāwa — was born in 1012 AD in Zholung Village, Chujé, Lhodrak (south of present-day Yamdrok Lake, southern Tibet). Exceptionally gifted from a young age, before the age of thirteen he studied Sanskrit and Buddhist teachings under the master Dromi.

Later, upon hearing of the great attainments of the Indian master Naropa, he developed deep faith. From the age of thirteen to fifty-two, he endured countless hardships and life-threatening dangers, traveling three times to India and four times to Nepal in pursuit of the Dharma. Over a span of forty years of study, he attained supreme realization, becoming a great spiritual master of Tibet during the later dissemination of Buddhism.

Because Marpa translated, revised, and systematized a vast collection of Buddhist scriptures and ritual texts from Sanskrit, he is also honored as one of the Seven Great Translators of Ancient Tibet, playing a vital role in the revival of Tibetan Buddhism in the later propagation period.

When Marpa first traveled to India for Dharma studies, he remained there for twelve years. Upon his return, his teacher Naropa gave him a prophecy:

“When you return to the snowy land of Tibet, your Dharma seat will be a sacred place — the sacred land of Hevajra. The right mountain resembles an elephant, its ridge extending all the way to India, symbolizing the unbroken lineage of the Dharma. The valley to the left resembles a fierce serpent descending, also linking to India, symbolizing the subduing of non-Buddhist paths. The mountain behind coils like a khata scarf, symbolizing the flourishing of the Dharma. The mountains opposite flow with streams of merit-water, symbolizing virtue, and the foundation of the monastery will resemble a lion’s throne.”

Following Naropa’s prophecy, upon his first return to Tibet, Marpa founded Lo Drowolung Monastery in his homeland of Lhodrak. There he gathered innumerable disciples, among whom four became known as his “Four Great Pillars”: Ngok, Metön, Tsurtön, and Milarepa.

Among them, the Northern Pillar Milarepa is the most widely revered, legendary yogi of Tibet — his life of ascetic practice and his “One Hundred Thousand Songs of Realization” became one of the most influential spiritual legacies of Tibet, translated into many languages worldwide. Milarepa’s foremost disciple, Gampopa, integrated both sutra and tantra into the Kagyu lineage and greatly expanded its influence, leading to the formation of the historically renowned “Four Great and Eight Lesser Kagyu Lineages.”

According to historical records, at that time over five hundred practitioners were simultaneously meditating in caves or under trees at Lo Drowolung Monastery. Countless monks studied debate beneath the trees. From this flourishing tradition, the Kagyu lineage was born — showing that, even a thousand years ago, the monastery’s culture of teaching and practice was already thriving.

Lineage

In the 11th century, Marpa the Translator, after his three journeys to India, established Lo Drowolung Monastery in Lhodrak. There he accepted disciples such as Milarepa, who, as a renowned spiritual practitioner, contributed immensely to the spread and formation of the Kagyu School.

His great disciple Dakpo Laje (Gampopa) integrated the Kadam teachings with Milarepa’s tantric practices, emphasizing the transmission of Mahāmudrā (the Great Seal), and founded the famous Dakpo Kagyu lineage. From Dakpo Kagyu branched out the “Four Great and Eight Lesser Kagyu Lineages.”

Among these, the most prominent is the Karma Kagyu lineage, founded by the First Karmapa, Düsum Khyenpa, who initiated the Tibetan tulku (reincarnate lama) tradition. Meanwhile, the scholastic and meditative lineage of Marpa was inherited by his other three great disciples (Ngok, Metön, Tsurtön). Their transmission remains active, and in Tibet, the traditional expositions of the Guhyasamāja Tantra and Hevajra Tantra still largely derive from Marpa’s scholastic lineage.

Legends and Incense

It is said that after completing three years, three months, and three days of retreat here, Marpa the Translator cut a lock of his hair and gave it to a disciple, instructing him to scatter it at the site and make aspirations for trees to grow. The disciple did so, praying:

“Even if sandalwood and cypress do not grow, may many other trees and plants flourish here.”

Indeed, more than a hundred tree species grew, along with 1,028 medicinal herbs capable of curing 424 kinds of illnesses. These herbs were believed to offer fearless protection against 21,000 kinds of misfortunes. From the Naropa Retreat Center also flows a stream known as the Eight Qualities Water, said to relieve heat, thirst, and exhaustion for all who see or drink it. Around the stream, fragrant plants such as incense herbs and cypress trees grow abundantly, purifying negativity, refreshing the mind, and invigorating the body.

Naropa himself once praised this place, prophesying:

“Lo Drowolung Monastery is the sacred land where holy grasses and medicines grow, and where sacred trees flourish…”

The incense crafted here follows ancient methods dating back to Guru Padmasambhava. For centuries, this sacred incense has blessed and benefited countless beings.

Filed Under: Kagyu Pa Monasteries

Lhalung Monastery

September 8, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Lhalung Monastery, also known as Lhalung Gonpa, is located in Lhalung Village, Zhari Township of Lhozhag County, Shannan City, Tibet Autonomous Region. Perched on an open river valley terrace at an altitude of 3,700 meters, it lies 310 kilometers from Lhasa and just 18 kilometers from the county seat of Lhozhag. With the Lhozhag Nuqu River flowing eastward in front and mountains rising behind, the monastery enjoys a serene setting surrounded by ancient trees and beautiful scenery.

The name Lhalung in Tibetan literally means “by the will of the gods.”

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Historical Background

The origins of Lhalung Monastery can be traced back to the 7th century, when King Songtsen Gampo, after marrying Princess Wencheng of the Tang Dynasty, commissioned the construction of many Buddhist temples throughout Tibet. Lhalung Monastery was among them.

Between 836 and 846 CE, the monk Lhalung·Palgyi Dorje expanded the monastery. He later became known in Tibetan history for assassinating the last Tibetan king Langdarma at the end of the Tubo Dynasty, a dramatic event that contributed to a period of decline for the monastery. The sacred dance “Black Hat Offering the Divine Drink” performed in Tibetan cham rituals originated at Lhalung, commemorating this episode.

In 1155 CE, Düsum Khyenpa, the First Karmapa and founder of the Karma Kagyu School, formally rebuilt Lhalung Monastery, establishing it as an important Kagyu practice center in southern Tibet. During the 16th century it rose to become one of the principal Red Hat Karma Kagyu monasteries.

One of Tibet’s most celebrated historical works, “A Feast of the Wise”, was written here by the eminent Karma Kagyu scholar Pawo`Tsuglag Threngwa. Over the course of 18 years, he composed this monumental history, which was later woodblock-printed by artisans at Lhalung. The book brought enduring fame to both its author and the monastery, making Lhalung unique among Tibetan monasteries as the only one known primarily for a single literary masterpiece.

In the mid-16th century, Pawo·Tsuglag Threngwa further expanded the monastery, constructing the Shezhu Lhakhang and arranging its layout in the form of a mandala. Following his passing, the tulku (reincarnated lama) system was introduced at Lhalung.

In 1655, the Fifth Dalai Lama visited Lhalung Monastery to transmit teachings and converted it to the Gelug tradition, though elements of the Kagyu lineage were retained. Later, the monastery came under the stewardship of the reincarnation line of the great Nyingma treasure revealer Pema Lingpa, and its affiliation shifted again to the Nyingma School.

During the Cultural Revolution of the 1960s, several of the monastery’s chapels were damaged.

In 1985, the government funded the restoration of 12 important structures, including the main assembly hall and the protector deity chapel.

In 2009, the Tibet Autonomous Region Cultural Relics Bureau implemented another emergency conservation project, ensuring the preservation of Lhalung Monastery as both a living religious center and a significant site of Tibetan cultural heritage.

Architecture of Lhalung Monastery

Lhalung Monastery stands out for its distinctive blend of Tibetan and Han Chinese architectural traditions. Its main deities are Guru Padmasambhava and Shakyamuni Buddha, and the complex also houses the reliquary stupas of successive incarnations of the great treasure revealer Pema Lingpa.

The monastery is set within a large walled courtyard, irregular in shape yet faintly resembling the chinese character “Ya.” The enclosure measures about 120 meters east–west and 200 meters north–south. Its hollow two-story walls, 1.8 meters thick and 6.5 meters high, are crowned with rows of small stupas, giving the site a striking silhouette.

From its earliest history, Lhalung maintained contact with the imperial court in inland China, sending monks to present tribute. The main gate once displayed an imperial plaque bestowed during the Ming dynasty, while the monastery’s murals clearly reveal the influence of Chinese green-and-blue landscape painting.

The Main Assembly Hall

The central assembly hall is a three-story, flat-roofed structure in the classic Tibetan style. Inside the ground floor, twenty wooden pillars support elaborate bracket sets (dou-gong), each unique in design: some cross-shaped, others linear; some single-tiered, others built up in three expanding layers. Painted across the bracket wings are vivid images of Buddhas, lotus flowers, scrollwork, and auspicious patterns, with certain ends inscribed in golden Lantsa script.

The walls of the first floor are lined with brightly colored stone-carved murals. One large panel depicts the monastery’s lineage of eminent lamas—seated calmly in red robes, some wearing black hats with golden trim, others in the characteristic red hats of the Kagyu school. At the center, a prominent figure in a red robe and white patterned cloak may represent one of Lhalung’s most renowned tulkus. Unusually, this mural series focuses not on religious narratives but on the transmission of the monastery’s spiritual lineage, a feature that distinguishes Lhalung from other Tibetan monasteries.

A steep wooden staircase leads to the second floor, where murals again line the walls. Among them is a panoramic view of the monastery in its golden age, depicting its numerous shrines and meditation quarters in delicate tones that closely resemble Chinese landscape paintings. From here, visitors may climb to the gilded rooftop for sweeping views of the surrounding valley and villages.

Other Chapels

On the east side of the main hall stands the Shezhu Lhakhang, constructed with funding from the Bhutanese royal family. Serving as a place of study and pilgrimage for Bhutanese monks and merchants, it still attracts Bhutanese devotees each year. This four-pillared chapel enshrines Guru Padmasambhava and likely dates to the early 16th century, during the tenure of Pawo·Tsuglag Threngwa, when Lhalung temporarily came under Nyingma stewardship. Its walls are not painted but covered with stone carvings affixed directly to the surface, creating a striking three-dimensional mural effect. Among the carvings are skull motifs, as well as figures of Buddhas, bodhisattvas, lineage masters, and disciples, later colored in vivid paints.

To the west of the main hall lies the Avalokiteshvara Chapel, followed in sequence by the debating courtyard, protector deity shrine, other chapels, and the monks’ quarters.

Heritage Status

Recognized for its cultural and artistic value, Lhalung Monastery was designated a county-level protected cultural site in 1998. In 2007, it was elevated to the list of regional cultural relics protected by the Tibet Autonomous Region. On March 5, 2013, the State Council of China formally listed it as part of the seventh batch of National Key Cultural Relics Protection Units.

Cultural Relics

Imperial Edict

The monastery houses numerous cultural relics, among which the most precious is a Tibetan-language imperial edict issued during the reign of Emperor Qianlong of the Qing Dynasty. This edict explicitly states that the so-called “disputed areas” between present-day China and India, as well as China and Bhutan, belonged to China during the Qing period, affirming them as Chinese territory.

Mani Stone Carvings

The stone carvings at Lalung Monastery can generally be categorized into four types: scriptural inscriptions, human figures, decorative patterns, and symbolic motifs.

The carvings of Shezhu Lakhang (also known as Xuejiu Lakhang) are embedded on the eastern and western walls. They are believed to date from the same period as the building itself, approximately the Ming Dynasty ( AD 1368 – AD 1644).

Each carving measures about 30 x 40 cm and is neatly arranged in four rows, with a total of 99 pieces (four damaged).

The edges of each stone are molded into shrine-like reliefs, adorned with intricate motifs such as stupas, mountains, flowers, as well as animals like deer and sheep.

The main themes include depictions of Yab-Yum (male-female tantric deities such as Heruka Vajrakilaya), hybrid beings with human bodies and animal faces, all of which are associated with Nyingma tantric practices and representations of Guru Padmasambhava subduing demons, giving rise to various protector deities.

Along the walls of the main hall, some carvings are mounted on wooden frames while others are embedded into the walls. They serve both as architectural decoration and as objects of worship for pilgrims circumambulating the temple.

This collection comprises forty to fifty pieces, each generally about 40 x 50 cm. The slabs are thin, smooth, and uniform in both material and carving technique.

Some carvings are embedded in the northern wall of the main hall. According to monastery records, part of the northern section of the hall was dismantled during the Fifth Dalai Lama’s era, so these carvings could not predate that period.

The themes primarily feature portraits of sectarian patriarchs, accounting for over 90% of the total. Each portrait has a small Tibetan inscription in the upper corner, likely naming the figure, while their headgear indicates their sectarian affiliation.

  • Bald heads: unidentified sects.
  • Laymen, translators, or scholars with hair. Some wear the pandita hat, reserved for great scholars.
  • Some wear winter hats lined with fox fur, typically used by high lamas or incarnate lamas, common in both Nyingma and Kagyu schools.
  • The Karma Kagyu sect is characterized by the black hat. Dusum Khyenpa, the first Karmapa, was said to wear a black hat, hence the sect was called the Black Hat school. In fact, it was not until the second Karmapa, Karma Pakshi, that the Yuan emperor bestowed the black hat, formally establishing the Black Hat lineage.
  • The Gelug sect is represented by yellow hats, tall in shape with long fringes.

The carvings thus reflect depictions of the Karma Kagyu, Nyingma, and Gelug sects — consistent with the sects historically associated with the monastery. Therefore, it is inferred that these carvings represent successive incarnations of the monastery’s lamas.

Cultural Value

Lalung Monastery has a long history and is an important center of Tibetan Buddhism. Over time it has been affiliated with the Karma Kagyu, Gelug, and now the Nyingma school, reflecting its deep religious and historical significance. It has exerted considerable influence in Tibetan history and preserves a rich collection of relics. Moreover, its architectural style is distinctive, blending Tibetan and Han Chinese elements, making it highly valuable for the study of Tibetan architectural art.

Monastic Education at Lhalung Monastery

At present, the monastery has no Khenpo (abbot) or Tulku (incarnate lama). There are 15 monks, most of whom come from Zhari Township. Among them, three are elder monks who take turns serving as the Gegu, responsible for maintaining monastic discipline. In addition, two chant masters lead daily scripture recitation and ritual activities.

To enhance the monks’ knowledge of Buddhist scriptures, in 2013 the monastery established an internal study class. Two chant masters, Dechen Longzhu and Pubu Tsering, take turns teaching, with a rotation every six months.

In the traditional Nyingma system of monastic education, when novices first enter the monastery, they are not divided into classes. All begin by learning the Tibetan alphabet, spelling, and basic sentence formation from their teacher. They are then called Gakaba, meaning “beginners.”

After one to two years, they memorize essential mantras and hymns used in various religious rituals. They then advance to the cultural class, where they study the “five minor sciences” — rhetoric, poetics, prosody, dramaturgy, and astrology — alongside introductory Buddhist teachings. The study period varies but generally lasts five to six years, during which they are considered “preparatory students.”

Around the age of twenty, after receiving novice (śrāmaṇera) ordination, they may enter the monastic college as auditors, known as Gechö. Only after taking full monk (bhikṣu) ordination are they formally admitted as students of the college. Once enrolled, they study both exoteric and esoteric Buddhist scriptures taught by their teachers. Their academic performance is assessed through examinations, and outstanding students may earn the title Rojangpa, equivalent to a doctoral degree.

Study in the monastic college typically lasts at least five years and may extend beyond ten. During this period, in addition to mastering their own coursework, students also serve as teaching assistants, guiding junior monks in their studies.

Upon successfully completing the curriculum and final examinations of the college, a monk becomes eligible to enter the Tantric Training Institute, which is equivalent to an esoteric college.

The course of study there lasts about six years: the first three years focus on initiation rituals, instructions, and guidance in spiritual practice, while the latter three years are devoted to solitary practice in retreat.

Those who achieve outstanding results in spiritual practice may be granted the title Drubpo Lama (“Accomplished Lama”), while those excelling in teaching others may be recognized as Drubpo Donlama (“Lama accomplished in instruction”).

Monks who complete both the scholastic college and the training institute with distinction are awarded the title of “Professor.”

Afterward, they may remain at the monastery to take disciples and teach, or they may be appointed as Khenpo in affiliated monasteries.

For further advancement, they may also travel to study under renowned masters and eminent lamas, thereby attaining greater accomplishments and honors.

Filed Under: Nyingma Pa Monasteries

Taklung Monastery

September 4, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Located at the southern foot of Maomao Mountain in Pangduo Township, Linzhou County, Lhasa City, Tibet Autonomous Region, Taklung Monastery is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery of the Taklung Kagyu school, and the principal monastery (mother monastery) of this lineage.

The monastery integrates the teachings of the Kadam and Kagyu traditions. During the Yuan and Ming dynasties, it developed into a major religious center in northern Tibet, receiving imperial patronage and recognition from Kublai Khan of the Yuan Dynasty and the Yongle Emperor of the Ming Dynasty. At the same time, Riwoche Monastery was founded in present-day Riwoqe County, Chamdo, creating the “Upper and Lower Taklung” lineage system.

After reopening in 1982, the monastery preserved cultural relics such as an imperial saddle bestowed by the Kangxi Emperor. In 2015, it launched an expansion project and held the enthronement ceremony of the Dharma King. In 2024, branch libraries were established, including a library for ancient texts and an intangible cultural heritage sub-museum. Today, the monastery preserves sacred relics such as a silver stupa and a miraculous self-manifest statue, while continuing religious practices and contributing to cultural heritage such as Tibetan calligraphy.

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About the Taklung Kagyu

The Taklung Kagyu school is one of the eight minor branches of the Phagdru Kagyu, itself one of the four main sub-schools of the Dagpo Kagyu lineage. It is historically influential and has survived to the present day.

“Taklung” is a place name. In Tibet, there are two locations known as Taklung: one in today’s Linzhou County, Lhasa, in the Pengbo region; and another in Langkazi County, Shannan Prefecture.

Taklung Thangpa Tashi Pal (1142–1210), a disciple of Phagmo Drupa Dorje Gyalpo, founded the “Taklung Dorjeden Monastery” in the Pengbo Taklung area of present-day Linzhou. This became known simply as “Taklung Monastery.” Because it lies north of Lhasa, it was also called “Northern Taklung Monastery.” The lineage that developed from it came to be known as the Taklung Kagyu, and its founder, Tashi Pal, was honored as “Taklung Thangpa.”

From the time Taklung Thangpa assumed the position of abbot (commonly referred to as the “Taklung Dharma King”), until the tenure of the fourth abbot Sangye Ön (1251–1296), the leadership saw a transition. Sangye Ön served only one year before stepping down, after which Mangala Guru became the new fourth abbot.

After leaving Pengbo, Sangye Ön traveled to the Kham region, to Leiwuqi (“Leiwuqi” meaning “Great Mountain”), in search of a site to found a monastery. In 1277, he established Yangong Monastery and the grand “Sama” assembly hall at Na’itang, on the upper reaches of the Sechu River before the sacred mountain Dechenpozhang. He served as the first abbot there. Later, in 1326, Abbot Ugyen Gonpo completed the “Khrajima” assembly hall (some accounts say Sangye Ön laid its foundation in 1285, with completion in 1328 under Ugyen Gonpo). This monastery became one of the two principal centers of the Taklung Kagyu and the main seat of the school in Kham.

According to legend, when Sangye Ön left Taklung Monastery, he took with him two sacred relics: the relics of Milarepa and a pair of shoes worn by him (some sources say it was his staff and spoon).

The Taklung Kagyu lineage transmitted at Pengbo’s Taklung Monastery came to be known as “Upper Taklung” (Tib. Yatang), while the lineage of Leiwuqi’s Riwoche Monastery became “Lower Taklung” (Tib. Matang).

Both monasteries were founded by members of the Gase family, and the abbotship was passed down through a system of hereditary succession (known as “Wengyu”), wherein nephews or younger male relatives inherited the position.

Introduction

Taklung Monastery is located in Linzhou County, Lhasa City, at the foot of Qiala Mountain in Pangduo Township. Its full name is Taklung Thang Monastery. The monastery was founded in 1180 CE by Taklung Thangpa Tashi Pal, who propagated the teachings of the Kagyu school.

Although Taklung Thangpa Tashi Pal’s teachings derived from the Phagdru Kagyu, they developed distinctive characteristics. Thus, the lineage transmitted from Taklung Monastery came to be known as the Taklung Kagyu.

In 1276 CE, a disciple, Sangye Ön, was sent to the region of Riwoche (Leiwuqi), where he founded Riwoche Monastery. This became the principal seat of the school in Kham, known as Matang (“Lower Taklung”), while the mother monastery, Taklung, was referred to as Yatang (“Upper Taklung”).

Taklung Monastery grew to a vast scale. The Guide to the Sacred Sites of Ü-Tsang records:
“Within the Auspicious Taklung Thang Monastery, the number of sacred Buddhist relics is beyond counting. Most notable is the statue in the hermitage of Master Taklung Thangpa, which once miraculously spoke. In the upper floor of the main assembly hall stands an image of Master Jangchub Ö, whose hair continues to grow. Such miraculous objects are too numerous to list.”

Life of Tashi Pal

Taklung Thangpa Tashi Pal was born in Yangshö Bongreten, into the Rugé branch of the Zhas Tsangpo family.

At the age of 18, he took monastic vows. His preceptor was Kadam master Lhagangpa Sherab Dorje, and his disciplinarian was Chatrin Gomangwa. He later studied Kadam teachings such as the Bodhisattvacharyavatara (Guide to the Bodhisattva’s Way of Life) and the Compendium of Studies under Geshe Zhagönpa, traveling to Tangja, Dangse, Jomuthang, and other places to receive teachings.

At 24, he went to Lhoka to study under Phagmo Drupa Dorje Gyalpo, receiving Kagyu teachings for six years.

After Phagmo Drupa’s passing in 1170, he traveled to Meldro Gungkar to study further with Kadam master Chakapa. He received full monastic ordination with Khyangshemawa as preceptor, Mabajongtangpa as disciplinarian, and Khyangdün Gemiwa as instructor, gaining deep knowledge of both Kadam and Kagyu traditions.

In 1180, he was invited by the people of Da, Zhe, and Rongto to Taklung, where he founded Taklung Monastery and was honored with the title Taklung Thangpa.

After the monastery’s completion, Taklung Thangpa remained there for 30 years, teaching and guiding disciples. By the time of his passing, the monastery housed 3,000 monks.

He frequently sent offerings and scriptures to Dansa Til Monastery, founded by his teacher Phagmo Drupa Dorje Gyalpo, though these were repeatedly seized by his fellow disciple Zhigungpa. This caused him much sorrow.

In 1210, he passed away at the age of 69.

A report given in 1204, after the Mongol general Doda entered Tibet on behalf of Köden, stated:
“In Tibet, the Kadam monasteries are the most numerous; the monks of the Taklung school are the most virtuous; the power of the Drigung school is the greatest; and Sakya Pandita’s scholarship is the highest.”
This demonstrates the high reputation of the Taklung Kagyu during that era.

Taklung Thangpa himself was regarded as the “most virtuous” master of his time and held great renown throughout northern Tibet.

Life of Rinchen Gonpo

After the passing of Taklung Thangpa, his nephew Guyawa Rinchen Gonpo (1191–1236) succeeded him as abbot (khenpo) of Taklung Monastery.

Rinchen Gonpo became a monk at the age of 11 and, at 13, studied under Taklung Thangpa at Taklung Monastery. At 20, following his master’s passing, he assumed the role of abbot.

During his tenure, he first built a small silver stupa about one cubit in height, followed by a larger silver stupa, enshrining within its sūrya platform (the stupa’s neck) a statue of Master Phagmo Drupa cast from 17 liang of gold.

He also constructed two reliquary stupas, enshrining an image of Master Taklung Thangpa within silver bowls covered by silver parasols. In addition, he built a large silver statue of Taklung Thangpa.

Because the monastery possessed a great many scriptures and sacred images, in 1228 he oversaw the construction of a grand assembly hall. He also renovated monastic residences, raising the number of monks from 700 to 2,800.

Rinchen Gonpo was a skilled administrator. Not only did he govern Taklung Monastery effectively, but he also formalized agreements requiring peasant households to perform corvée labor for the monastery. Historical records state that, within a short time, he increased the number of subjects under his jurisdiction from 82 to 5,000.

The Abbots of Taklung Monastery

The third abbot of Taklung Monastery, Sangye Yajun Shirawa Lama (1203–1272), lived a life of reclusion and formulated detailed monastic regulations. Tradition holds that when the Yuan dynasty’s Imperial Preceptor Phakpa Lama was returning from Dadu (Yuan capital) to Sakya and passed Taklung Monastery, Shirawa Lama went out to greet him, and the two performed the “head-touching” greeting (thödröl). This gesture, in Tibetan Buddhism, was exchanged only between persons of equal standing, showing the high status of Shirawa Lama and the significant influence of Taklung Monastery at that time.

It is said Shirawa Lama entrusted his nephew, Mangala Guru (1231–1297), to the care of Phakpa. After his passing, another nephew and disciple, Sangye Ön (1231–1294), initially succeeded him as abbot. However, with Phakpa’s support, Mangala Guru ultimately secured the position, becoming the fourth abbot of Taklung Monastery.

Mangala Guru became a monk at age 16 under Khenpo Tangjawa and Master Khedrup Zhaba Sangpo, studying the Vinaya and the Lamp for the Path to Enlightenment. Under the guidance of Khedrup Tokchenpo, he learned the practices of Hevajra, Kalachakra, and the profound teachings of Taklung Thangpa. At 25, he received full ordination at Taklung Monastery from Khenpo Tongkaba Woser Gyünle and Ajakan Wenpa Rinchen Tashi.

Later, under Abbot Sangye Yajun, he received instructions on the “Six Yogas of Naropa” and Mahamudra, engaging in 16 years of meditation retreat and attaining samadhi (deep meditative absorption).

He presided over Taklung Monastery for 25 years. After his passing, the esteemed master Mapang Gonpo Tashi Lama became the fifth abbot.

The ninth abbot, Tashi Pelzang (1359–1424), was honored by the Ming Emperor Yongle with the title of State Preceptor and presented with a silver seal and official decree. In 1376, at age 18, he was appointed abbot. At 20, he traveled to Lhasa, where he was warmly received by the Situ Gyalrongpa of the Tséba lineage and others. Tibetan historical records note that he was a contemporary of Je Tsongkhapa. His descendant, Dharma King Tashi Beyoba (1408), also became head of Taklung Monastery and heard teachings directly from Tsongkhapa. Because Tashi Pelzang was responsible for building Rinchencha Monastery, his connections with the Kadam school were strong.

Under the abbacy of Chöjé Rinpoche Awang Chapa Pelzangpo, Taklung Monastery experienced significant growth. By the late 15th century, it remained widely renowned across Tibet for its strict discipline, in contrast with the increasingly lax practices in other monasteries.

During the Ming dynasty, the ninth abbot, Taklung Tashi Pelzang (1359–1424), was blessed by the eighth abbot Redanakare upon first sight. At age six, under the disciplinarian Gönpa Rinshün, he studied writing and recitation; at 11, he learned tantric teachings from Rinchenwa; and at 17, he received full ordination from Rinpoche Namkha Pelzangpo and Letün Rinchen Ngö, taking the name “Tashi Pelzang Nyima Wangbu Sönbe Gochak” (meaning “Auspicious Vajra Armor Protector”). At 18, he assumed leadership of Taklung Monastery, widely turning the wheel of Dharma.

After the death of his master Namkha Pelzangpo, he commissioned a cubit-high silver reliquary stupa, a large Buddha statue, and many scriptures. He was later appointed State Preceptor by the Ming Emperor Yongle, receiving a silver seal and decree. He suffered from heart disease and passed away in 1424. After his death, the tenth abbot was Sonam Gyaltsen (1386–1434), who at age 46 built a jewel-encrusted stupa containing exquisite statues.

Although the Taklung Kagyu lineage continued into modern times, its strength gradually waned under the growing influence of the Gelug school.

Present Situation

The two principal monasteries of the Taklung Kagyu school—Taklung Monastery and Riwoche Monastery—once each housed three to four thousand monks. Over the centuries, Riwoche grew into the largest monastery in Chamdo. Later, both Taklung and Riwoche adopted the tulku (reincarnated lama) system for their abbots.

Taklung Monastery developed two main tulku lineages: the Taklung Machang incarnation line, traced back to the 13th century (to Rinchen Gonpo), and the Taklung Dzigdrul incarnation line, beginning around the 17th century. The Italian Tibetologist Giuseppe Tucci recorded in Tibet: Land of the Snows:
“Taklung Monastery had three reincarnate lamas presiding: the Shachung Tulku, the Machang Tulku, and the Dzigdrul Tulku. Whenever one lineage seat fell vacant, it was filled by a boy from the Dowa family of noble monks.” (The Dowa family is the Dokha family.)

Riwoche Monastery also developed two tulku systems, beginning around the 17th–18th centuries. Over time, numerous branch monasteries of the Taklung Kagyu appeared across Ü-Tsang, Tsang, and Kham, producing many eminent masters.

The Taklung Kagyu tradition’s main teachings include the Thirty-Nine Practices and other transmissions.

From the 18th century onward, the school gradually declined. In 1679, an internal conflict among Taklung leaders over control of the monastery led to the loss of all territorial holdings, and even the abbacy of Taklung Monastery itself was seized. The Dowa (Dokha) family only regained influence when Dowa Tsering Wanggyel was appointed Kalön (minister) by the Qing Emperor, the Seventh Dalai Lama, and the Kashag, earning him the title “Kalön Shachung.” The Dowa family held extensive estates not only in Dokha Khika but also in Lhasa, Pengbo, and elsewhere.

In the early 21st century, the abbot of Taklung Monastery was Dzigdrul Tulku Dingjen Wiser, who also served as deputy secretary-general of the Tibet Branch of the Buddhist Association of China.

Filed Under: Kagyu Pa Monasteries

Chakra Monastery

April 11, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Also known as Ewam Monastery (E waM Gonpa) or Yanweng Monastery (Yan weng Gonpa), Chakra Monastery belongs to the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. It was founded by Tse Sa Lama – Sherab Gyatso between approximately 1187 and 1200 CE.

The name of the monastery originates from the phrase “gnam la e dang sa la waM yig tshang ba’i gnas.” Currently, the monastery houses around 90 resident monks and student monks.

It is located in the southern part of Dege County, near the Jinsha River — the natural boundary with the Tibet Autonomous Region — nestled in a mountain hollow close to the summit. It is about 35 kilometers from the county seat of Dege and is accessible by road and connected to electricity.

Chakra Monastery is an important Nyingma monastery in the Kham region and serves as a branch of the renowned Pelyul Monastery located in Baiyu County.

In summer, the area is lush with green grass and blooming flowers, offering breathtaking scenery and a serene environment. It is a sacred site for the practice of Dzogchen and Vajrayana teachings, making it not only a spiritual center for the study of both exoteric and esoteric Buddhism but also a wonderful destination for sightseeing and tourism.

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Chakra Legend of the Monastery’s Founding

Over 900 years ago, the Venerable Sherab Gyatso received teachings and engaged in spiritual practice under the guidance of the Venerable Tangpa Deshe, the founder of Kathok Monastery. Through his dedication, Sherab Gyatso attained both “common” and “uncommon” realizations and became one of Tangpa Deshe’s five principal disciples.

Tangpa Deshe once said to Sherab Gyatso:
“Now is the time for you to benefit sentient beings and spread the Dharma. You should go toward the direction of Dege. When you see a Dharma wheel appear in the sky with the syllable ‘E’ at its center, and on the ground an eight-petaled lotus with the syllable ‘waM’ appearing in its heart — and when these two merge together in the sky — that is the place where you are destined to build a monastery and propagate the Dharma.”

After a long and arduous journey, Sherab Gyatso arrived at a place where the surrounding peaks resembled the Eight Auspicious Symbols, the forests were lush, the springs were crystal clear, and birds gathered in harmony. At that moment, the vision described by Tangpa Deshe appeared in the sky.

Recognizing this as the destined site, Sherab Gyatso established Ewam Monastery (Chakra Monastery) there. The location is also believed to be the sacred mountain of the Dharma protector Dangjin Dorje Lingpa.

Dangjin Dorje Lingpa is considered one of the most powerful protectors within the Dzogchen tradition. For generations, the local people have passed down stories of the miraculous power of the protectors associated with Ewam Monastery.

Chakra Development and Lineage

Throughout its history, Ewam Monastery experienced both periods of prosperity and decline. After flourishing for a time, the monastery fell into decline, with the number of monks dwindling. It was during this period that a great figure emerged — Master Dangchin Jangchok. He studied at Palyul Monastery under the great tertön Gotsang Sherab, receiving the complete lineage of Palyul. He then revitalized Ewam Monastery, which from that point onward became an important branch of Palyul Monastery.

Historically, Ewam Monastery had five main assembly halls and was home to over a hundred resident high lamas. Countless accomplished masters emerged from here, including many who achieved the rainbow body. Among them were thirteen renowned masters such as Shiré Gyatso, Onchin Dorje, Zatsa Lama, Chipoma Gyentsen, and Tangpa Jangde.

It is said that every morning, these thirteen great masters would fly across the Jinsha River to practice on a sacred mountain in Tibet, returning to Ewam Monastery in the evening. Since local villagers did not have timekeeping tools at that time, they would wait to see the high lamas fly back before going home to prepare dinner.

The relic stupas of these thirteen great masters were preserved at Ewam Monastery, two of which were corporeal (containing their physical remains). Sadly, all of them were destroyed during the Cultural Revolution in the 1960s.

During that turbulent period, Ewam Monastery suffered extensive damage. Many high lamas were expelled and forced to take refuge in the mountains, where they could only practice the Dharma in secret at home.

Once religious freedom was restored, these high lamas returned to Ewam Monastery. Under the leadership of Pema Jangyong and Khenpo Pani Dorje, they began teaching the Dharma again amidst the ruins, gradually training new monks and rebuilding the monastery.

In 1994, Zewang Rinpoche, at the age of 21, completed his studies at Palyul Monastery. He was recognized by Penor Rinpoche as the reincarnation of Chiwong Tulku. Upon returning to Ewam Monastery, he was enthroned in a ceremony led by Tutsong Rinpoche. Taking charge of the monastery’s restoration, Zewang Rinpoche led the monks and devotees in tremendous efforts to rebuild.

They reconstructed the mountain paths connecting the monastery to surrounding villages, built the main assembly hall and auspicious stupas, crafted new statues, painted thangkas, and established a retreat center. There, monks began undertaking the traditional “three years, three months, and three days” retreat, as well as shorter intensive retreats.

To ensure younger monks received a proper education, Zewang Rinpoche also founded the Ewam Monastic Institute, inviting qualified teachers to provide systematic education for the young monastics.

In daily life, monks at Ewam Monastery gather in the main hall each morning and evening for prayer sessions and also recite scriptures in the protector shrine.

The protector shrine of Ewam Monastery houses deities such as Gambo Mani, Egang Zade, Tangje Lepa, Rehula, Nine Ma, Bobo Dorje Yane, mountain protectors, and wealth deities.

About ten monks are designated to perform daily rituals — in the mornings, they offer fire pujas and chant prayers for the Wealth Deity, Tara, Long Life, and Auspiciousness; in the afternoons, they recite protector prayers. These rituals are dedicated to the peace and prosperity of the nation, favorable weather, and the well-being of all. They also offer blessings to the lay supporters who contributed to rebuilding the monastery, praying for their success, peace, and good fortune in all endeavors.

Filed Under: Nyingma Pa Monasteries

Bantsang Gonpa

March 11, 2025 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Bantsang Gonpa, also known as Nedong Bantsang Monastery, is a Tibetan Buddhist monastery with a profound historical and religious heritage. Its full Tibetan name is Thubtan Sherabshadru Phelgyaling. Established around the year 1350 AD, the monastery belongs to the Kagyu school and was once one of the important monasteries of the Phagdru Kagyu tradition.

Located in Zêtang Town, Nedong District, in the Shannan (Lhoka) Prefecture of the Tibet Autonomous Region, Bantsang Gonpa sits on the slopes of the right side of Zêtang Mountain. Nestled within the breathtaking landscapes of southern Tibet, it stands as a testament to the resilience and revival of Tibetan culture and spirituality.

Buddha of infinite light
Bantsang-assembly-hall
Bantsang-doorknob
Bantsang-main-building
main hall door
Padmasambhava
Sakyamuni
Trisong-Detsan
Bantsang-yard

Historical Evolution and Sectarian Lineage

The establishment of Bantsang Gonpa dates back to the mid-14th century when it belonged to the important branch of the Kagyu school known as Phagdru Kagyu. Derived from the larger Kagyu tradition of Tibetan Buddhism, the Phagdru Kagyu school held a significant place in Tibetan history, ruling Tibet for more than two centuries during the late Yuan and early Ming dynasties. During this period, Bantsang Gonpa underwent continuous expansion, eventually developing into a monastic complex consisting of thirteen chapels, serving as a major center for religious practice and pilgrimage for local devotees.

As history unfolded, Bantsang Gonpa later became affiliated with Kuntsang Tse, under which it remained an important monastery. At its peak, the monastery housed approximately seventy monks and enshrined a vast collection of precious gold, silver, and bronze Buddha statues. Among its most revered relics was the stupa of the seventh reincarnation of Yarje Orgyen Lingpa. Yarje Orgyen Lingpa was a highly influential figure in Tibetan Buddhist history, and his reincarnation lineage and spiritual attainments solidified Bantsang Gonpa’s status as a key religious center for Buddhist followers in southern Tibet.

However, the monastery’s history has not been without hardships. The Cultural Revolution of the 1960s dealt a devastating blow to this ancient temple. During this period of turmoil, nearly all of its structures were destroyed—the thirteen chapels were reduced to rubble, and most of its treasured gold, silver, and bronze Buddhist statues, along with other sacred artifacts, were either damaged or looted. The revered stupa of Yarje Orgyen Lingpa was also lost to the destruction. This catastrophe not only obliterated the material foundation of the monastery but also severed its religious continuity, scattering its monks and leaving the monastery abandoned. Once a glorious religious sanctuary, Bantsang Gonpa was reduced to ruins.

Reconstruction and Revival

In the 1980s, with the adjustment of national religious policies, Bantsang Gonpa was given the opportunity for rebirth. Reconstruction efforts gradually took shape, supported by the local government’s renewed religious policies. Former monks of the monastery took the initiative to organize and lead the rebuilding process. This endeavor was immensely challenging, as they faced severe shortages of resources. However, with unwavering faith and dedication to their traditions, they overcame numerous obstacles, raising funds under difficult conditions and painstakingly restoring the destroyed chapels and monastic structures.

After years of effort, Bantsang Gonpa gradually regained some of its former splendor. Although it has not been possible to fully restore its original scale or recover its lost relics, the rebuilt monastery has once again become home to returning monks, and the sound of Buddhist chants resonates once more. Today, it serves as a vital center for Kagyu practitioners in the region, preserving its ancient religious traditions and standing as a symbol of cultural and spiritual revival in southern Tibet.

Geographical Setting and Cultural Significance

Zêtang Town, where Bantsang Gonpa is located, is regarded as one of the cradles of Tibetan culture and is among the oldest towns in Tibet. Not only is it a cultural and historical center of the Yarlung Tsangpo River civilization, but it also played a pivotal role in the early history and religious development of the Tibetan people. Nestled against the mountains, the monastery is surrounded by a serene and solemn environment, providing an ideal atmosphere for monastic practice.

The history of Bantsang Gonpa not only embodies the religious traditions of the Phagdru Kagyu school but also bears witness to several key historical transitions in Tibet. Its revival represents more than just a resurgence of religious belief—it is also a part of Tibet’s broader cultural renaissance, allowing this once-glorious monastery to once again serve as a spiritual sanctuary for devoted followers.

Throughout history, the fate of Bantsang Gonpa reflects the turbulent journey of Tibetan Buddhism in modern times. More than just an important Kagyu establishment, it is a vital part of Tibetan religious and cultural heritage, symbolizing the Tibetan people’s steadfast faith and commitment to preserving their traditions.

Although the monastery’s reconstruction has not fully restored its former material grandeur, its spiritual essence endures. During religious festivals, devotees from far and wide gather here to offer incense, listen to scriptures, and reconnect with their faith, making the monastery a renewed bridge between people and their spiritual beliefs.

Today, as society evolves and religious faith experiences a revival, Bantsang Gonpa stands resilient on the slopes of Zêtang Mountain, having risen from past hardships to regain its vitality. Once again, it serves as a sacred site for spiritual practice and pilgrimage, showcasing the profound religious and cultural legacy of Tibet to the world.

Filed Under: Kagyu Pa Monasteries

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