Yeshe Gonpa was founded in 958 AD by a local tribal chief named Lejia and belongs to the Bon religion. It is located in Jialaxi Township, Xinlong County, about 3 kilometers from the county seat. At the temple entrance, there is a sacred stone said to bear the footprint of the temple’s protective deity, a tiger, which appeared on the night of November 27th, 1983.
Yeshe Gonpa is considered a sacred site for various deities, including Samantabhadra Buddha, the Buddha of Infinite Light, the Compassionate Mother Buddha, Avalokiteshvara, the Buddha of Wealth and Victory, and Vajra Tiger-Clad Deity.
Introduction
Yeshe Gonpa is situated in a picturesque environment surrounded by mountains and forests, filled with birdsong and flowers. There are four meditation retreats and sacred sites around the temple.
- 1 kilometer to the east lies the sacred site “Dari Xingba Jiangze,” resembling a kind elder watching over Yeshe Gonpa.
- 3 kilometers to the south are the sacred sites of “Guxi Raomei” and “Genden Rongbu.”
- 1 kilometer to the west are the sacred sites of “Chuge” and “Daxiague.”
- 4 kilometers to the north are the sacred sites of “Lage” and “Longlong Laza.”
These sacred sites all feature charnel grounds, Vajra land dances, and large stone stupas.
Behind the temple is Xiang Wanda Zhu, a mountain with an elevation of over 1,000 meters. To the left of the temple lies a charnel ground, and to the right are the relic stupas of two lamas, A’yong Lama and Qubudengden.
The temple itself covers an area of about 1,490 square meters. The eastern forest surrounding Yeshe Gonpa is home to rare wildlife, such as musk deer, black bears, leopards, and red deer.
Yeshe Gonpa is encircled by four majestic sacred mountains, which were sent to Liangru by the ancient king Indra.
- Kawaloro
Conquered by Sangda* Langa Yeshe, Kawaloro is located 83 kilometers north of Yeshe Gonpa. It is the highest peak in the county, standing at 5,992 meters, with three towering, snow-capped peaks that remain covered year-round. Its magnificent landscape is a sacred Bon site, and it is known as the Vajra Dance Mountain, where sacred gatherings occur during the Year of the Monkey. - Xionglong Zhagya
Conquered by Bonpo yogi master Jiza Zhagwa, Xionglong Zhagya is located 42 kilometers west of the temple. The area is surrounded by mountains and water, with dense shrubs and three white granite peaks rising to an elevation of 4,600 meters. This is another sacred Bon site, where sacred gatherings take place during the Year of the Dog. - Xiangdi Silang Mountain
Conquered by Khumbu and Lozhen Tongmen, Xiangdi Silang Mountain lies 9 kilometers southwest of Yeshe Gonpa. The mountain is steep and forested, with an elevation of 4,600 meters. It is surrounded by twelve smaller peaks, with a lake at the summit covering five or six acres. The mountain is home to lions and bears the handprints and footprints of many masters. This is another Vajra Dance Mountain, where sacred gatherings take place during the Year of the Dog. - Baima Bozhen
Conquered by Mecha Jingmei, Baima Bozhen is located 5 kilometers east of the temple. It features dense shrubs and six peaks, rising to an elevation of 4,400 meters. The spectacular scenery includes canals running through the cracks in the cliffs, and the area is steeped in Bon legends related to the Vajra Dance, with sacred gatherings during the Year of the Dragon.
According to the ancient Bon historical texts, these four sacred sites are all important Bonpo spiritual locations.
Architecture
The entire Yeshe Gonpa complex is composed of a main hall, auxiliary halls, a kitchen, storage rooms, neatly arranged monk residences, a single-story building used by musicians and chant masters during the temple’s sacred dances, and a courtyard paved with stone slabs.
The main hall is intricately adorned with carved beams and painted pillars, with doors, windows, and Buddha shrines all meticulously crafted. The rear hall houses a Buddha statue over 10 meters high. The walls inside the hall are covered with murals, and the roof is a gilded bronze hip-and-gable structure that shines brilliantly under the sunlight.
On the inside wall of the temple entrance, there are century-old murals depicting various themes, including the “Treatise on Rhetoric,” the “Cycle of Life and Death,” a map of the Brahma world, the Seven Royal Symbols, the Eight Auspicious Signs, and depictions of protective deities, as well as three ancient scripts and symbols that dispel misfortune.
To the right of the temple is an ancient relic commemorating the 12 great achievements of Shenrab Miwo, the founder of the ancient Zhangzhung Bon religion.
Among the relics is a giant Thangka painting from the Qing dynasty, depicting Dunba Shenrab, the founding master of Bon, along with over 200 Buddhas and protective deities. This Thangka is the largest of its kind in Bon temples across the Tibetan region.
Legends
Yeshe Gonpa was founded by the great Bon master Sangda Langa Yeshe, who named the temple after himself, with “Yeshe” meaning “sacred wisdom.” When Sangda Langa Yeshe passed away, his entire body transformed into a rainbow light except for his hair and nails, marking his attainment of Buddhahood.
Langa Yeshe’s father, Muya Dase, was one of the ten ministers of King Trisong Detsen, the 38th ruler of the Tibetan Empire, and he was also a Bon yogi. Following his father’s instructions, Langa Yeshe traveled to the Liangru region (modern-day Xinlong County), where he subdued eight dragon deities.
The local chieftain, Lejia, recognized Langa Yeshe’s extraordinary spiritual powers and became a devoted follower. From that point on, Sangda Langa became Lejia’s lama and spiritual master.
Sangda Langa Yeshe named the temple “Yeshe Gonpa,” using the two characters of his name.
His successor, Xingba Jiangze (the sixth Sengen Rinpoche), used his supernatural powers to create a Buddha statue called “Xinla Wuga” at Yeshe Gonpa. When Xingba Jiangze passed away, his body also transformed into rainbow light, leaving behind only his hair and nails, just like his predecessor.
Ritual Activities
Every year, Yeshe Gonpa holds several religious events. Particularly, in the 6th and 11th months of the Tibetan calendar, the temple hosts the traditional Cham (sacred dance) performances. During this time, local devotees and visitors from afar gather at the monastery to watch the event, creating a lively and festive atmosphere.
Cultural Relics
Yeshe Gonpa, with its long history, houses numerous cultural relics and historical artifacts. The temple holds many gilded bronze Buddha statues and a variety of Bon scriptures. This includes several thousand volumes of the Bonpo Canon, Kangyur and Tengyur, as well as 15 Thangka paintings presented by various Tibetan officials who had governed Xinlong over the centuries.
Among the relics is a set of bronze cymbals crafted in the fifth year of the Ming Xuande era (1430 CE). Another notable item is a set of golden and silver dragon-engraved cymbals, gifted to the temple by Dodong Pumbu. The temple also possesses a large Thangka from the Qing Dynasty, depicting the Bonpo master Dunba Shenrab, with over 200 Buddha figures and the Black Flag of the wrathful Vajra dance deity, Sije. Other artifacts include a set of iron-forged Buddha images of the Mother Tantra and Dalai Buddha, and Vajra dance costumes from the Yuan dynasty, along with various musical instruments made of gold and silver.
The collection also contains ritual implements, including items from the Yuan, Ming, and Qing dynasties used in the Vajra dance.
Current Status
With the support of four temple stewards, Yeshe Gonpa has built over 130 monks’ quarters. The temple is home to 30 khenpos and reincarnate tulkus, with a total monastic population of about 280. The temple’s administrative committee changes every three years.
In terms of monastic study, the primary focus is on Dzogchen (Great Perfection), the Net of Magical Illusion, the Bardo teachings of peaceful and wrathful deities, and the core wrathful deities and protectors of Bon.
Yeshe Gonpa places particular emphasis on practical meditation, with strict spiritual discipline. Many monks engage in long-term retreats, and currently, about two-thirds of the monastic population is in retreat. Except for special occasions, such as major religious festivals, these monks rarely leave their retreat.
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