Pabongka Ritro, also known as “Pabonggang Ritro,” is located halfway up the Wudu Ri Mountain (means “Treasure Umbrella Mountain”) in Nyangre Township, Lhasa. It is a Gelug Pa monastery of Tibetan Buddhism
The name “Pabongka” in Tibetan means “Palace on a Giant Rock,” initially referring to two massive rocks resembling turtles, with the main building of Pabongka standing atop the “turtle shells.”
During the reign of King Songtsen Gampo in the Tibetan Empire (629-650 AD), a nine-story fortress-like palace (Maru Palace) was constructed under his supervision, which became a significant political and Buddhist center during the Tibetan Empire and is also recognized as the birthplace of Tibetan writing.
Brief
The palace was built with bricks and stones, with copper poured into the seams, and secured with four iron chains around it.
After the construction of the fortress, King Songtsen Gampo studied Tibetan language and grammar here under the tutelage of Thonmi Sambhota, making Pabongka a key site for political and religious activities.
During the reign of Trisong Detsen (from 755 to 797AD), the “Seven Trial People” lived here, further establishing Pabongka as an important Buddhist site. At the end of the Tibetan Empire, Pabongka suffered severe damage, and the fortress was destroyed.
In the 11th century, renowned monks Pang Do-wa and Za Do-wa rebuilt a two-story monastery on the ruins, practicing Buddhism and naming it Pabongka Monastery.
Later in the 11th century, Kadampa monk Geshe Zaga-wa renovated it, constructing a two-story temple and establishing a monastic community.
When Sakya Pandita Kunga Gyaltsen traveled to Liangzhou at the invitation of Köden, he visited and gave teachings here.
Tsongkhapa, the founder of the Gelug school, once meditated in a nearby cave called the Mahayana Cave, which is about 2 meters high and 10 square meters in area, and it still exists today.
Tsongkhapa’s disciples built the Chotok Lakhang, Songkha Lakhang, and 108 stupas to the west of the Mahayana Cave.
During the rule of the Fifth Dalai Lama, Pabongka was repaired and expanded again. Since then, after receiving their first monastic vows and attaining the Geshe degree, successive Dalai Lamas have held celebration ceremonies here.
In the 1960s, during the Cultural Revolution, Pabongka was destroyed.
In the 1980s, with the implementation of new religious policies by the local government, the monastery was rebuilt.
The Four “Gangs” of Lhasa
In Tibetan, “gang” means highland. Historically, there are four “gangs” in Lhasa: Pabonggang, Jibunggang, Thiebunggang, and Sapogang (transliterated from Tibetan).
- Pabonggang means “palace on a large rock.”
- Jibunggang means “place where the statue of Master Tsongkhapa is enshrined.”
- Thiebunggang means “place where ash is piled.”
- The meaning of Sapogang is unclear.
Among these, the name Sapogang has gradually faded from common usage. The remaining three gangs have developed with the economic boom: Pabonggang has become a famous tourist attraction, while Jibunggang and Thiebunggang have evolved into densely populated residential areas.
Brief History
Pabongka Ritro is located to the left of Sera Monastery, in front of Chubzang Ritro, to the right of Gari Monastery, and backed by Trashi Chöling Ritro
Trashi Chöling Ritro is northeast of Princess Wencheng’s Pavilion at Pabongka.
Originally, Pabongka was one of five spiritual sites built by Songtsen Gampo for his five queens (the other four being Jokhang, Ramoche, Dragla Luphu Monastery, and Drak Yerpa Monastery). Princess Wencheng lived at Pabongka and identified it as the northern Black Tortoise position of Lhasa according to Feng Shui principles.
Later, minister Thonmi Sambhota developed the Tibetan script at Pabongka.
In the 8th century, during the reign of King Trisong Detsen, the first seven Tibetan monks known as the “Seven Enlightened Ones of Samye,” Padmasambhava, Shantarakshita, and Trisong Detsen himself, all practiced at Pabongka once.
During the Kadampa period, Pabongka, which had fallen into disuse, was revived by the Kadampa founder.
At its peak, Pabongka housed over 7,000 monks studying Buddhist teachings.
Later, the monastery came under the administration of Sera Monastery.
Since the Qing Dynasty, each Dalai Lama has visited Pabongka to worship and receive ordination, and after attaining the Geshe degree, they held celebration ceremonies here.
The abbot of the monastery is traditionally appointed by the Tibetan Ganden Phodrang regime
The renowned Pabongka Rinpoche (1878 AD – 1941 AD) was named after this monastery and is revered as a great master. Many current Han and Tibetan Buddhist masters are his direct disciples or their successors.
Architecture
Pabongka Ritro stands on a massive rock that rises nearly 20 meters above the ground, with a top area of 300 square meters. The surrounding area consists of cliffs, with stone steps built into the northern cliff for access. Looking up from the monastery’s entrance to the rear mountain, the shape resembles the treasure parasol, one of the Eight Auspicious Symbols in Tibetan Buddhism. The monastery complex includes the Retreat Hall, Palace of Victory, and Princess Wencheng Pavilion. The Palace of Victory is on the left and the Retreat Hall on the right.
The main gate faces north, with the south side semicircular and the north side square. During the Cultural Revolution, much of the structure was demolished, leaving only the foundation walls. The ground floor originally had nine rooms of various shapes. It is believed that the second and third floors housed the Nyima Jiaoji Ban Kang and the Gong Kang halls, containing statues of Shakyamuni Buddha sculpted by Butön Rinchen Drup, sixteen Arhats created by Kadampa monks, a statue of Hayagriva, a copper statue of Inthon Rinpoche, and several stupas.
The western side of the massive rock features a cave known as “Cejur Lakhang” (Ten Day Hall), with a partially constructed stone wall, door, and windows. Inside, there is a self-manifested relief of the deity Palden Lhamo on the stone wall, known for its spiritual presence. The original hall contained statues of Padmasambhava, Trisong Detsen, Khenchen Bodhisattva (Shantarakshita), and the throne of Songtsen Gampo, which are no longer present. An octagonal lotus stone lamp and some carved scriptures from this hall hold significant research value.
Rigsum Gonpo Temple (Retreat Hall)
At the southern slope of the rock lies the Rigsum Gonpo Temple, also a key part of Pabongka. Historically damaged, it was rebuilt in the 1980s with community funding, and the statues and murals are recent creations. However, the ancient reliefs of the three protectors (Manjushri from the Buddha family, Vajrapani from the Vajra family, and Avalokiteshvara from the Lotus family) and the first inscription of the “Six Syllable Mantra” by Thonmi Sambhota survived.
The mantra inscription, located on the right wall outside the porch, is a blue stone slab with gold letters, 1.22 meters long and 0.66 meters wide, featuring six large Tibetan characters in relief. This is believed to be the first use of Tibetan script, created after Thonmi Sambhota returned from studying in India and demonstrated the script by writing the mantra on the wall under Songtsen Gampo’s order. Some say it was written by Songtsen Gampo himself after learning the script, and the inscription was later carved based on his writing.
The temple houses naturally formed statues of the three protectors, believed to have appeared during Songtsen Gampo’s time and later enhanced by Nepalese craftsmen. These statues are distinctly different from modern styles:
- Avalokiteshvara: Wearing a jeweled crown, with a high chignon and a small Shakyamuni image on the top, four arms (two in prayer position and two extended), bare upper body, with a draped scarf.
- Manjushri: Similar to Avalokiteshvara but with arms crossed in front holding a single-stem lotus.
- Vajrapani: More unique, with a high chignon entwined with two snakes, three glaring eyes, protruding fangs, nearly naked, a scarf draped over the shoulders, left arm holding a vajra up high, right arm in front, described in scriptures as having the power to dispel ignorance and aid in achieving enlightenment.
To the right of the main altar (left side for the worshippers) stands a statue of Avalokiteshvara with a thousand hands. It is said to have been growing taller, now touching the top of the altar, indicating its spiritual presence.
On the left wall outside the temple is a vividly colored large eye, believed to be one of the three eyes of Hevajra, naturally appearing on the mountain near Sera Monastery.
Cejur Lakhang (Ten Day Hall)
Behind the Retreat Hall, circling the rock to the left, is a small cave known as the Ten Day Hall, named after Trisong Detsen, Padmasambhava, and Shantarakshita meditated here for ten days.
The cave contains sacred statues, including one of Padmasambhava, and features a naturally formed relief of the goddess Palden Lhamo on the wall.
Pabonka Potrang (Palace of Victory)
Continuing upward from the Ten Day Hall leads to the Palace of Victory. Initially built by Songtsen Gampo as a nine-story structure with iron-infused foundations and iron chains for earthquake protection, it was named “Red Mountain Palace” (Gongga Maru).
Destroyed over time, it was rebuilt by the Kadampa masters into the present Palace of Victory. A stone near the entrance steps bears natural inscriptions of the mantra “Om Ah Hum.”
The palace houses statues of the Buddha, lineage masters, tantric deities, and protectors, including a naturally formed statue of Tara. The uppermost rooms contain ancient statues not open to the public.
Jasa Potrang (Princess Wencheng Pavilion)
Opposite the Palace of Victory is the yellow Princess Wencheng Pavilion, where Princess Wencheng once resided. Originally two stories with four doors facing east, the structure has been renovated in recent times. It now serves as a shrine, with a peach tree planted by Princess Wencheng still growing nearby.
Behind the pavilion is a large turtle-shaped rock, identified by Princess Wencheng as the northern玄龟 position of Lhasa. Nearby hills feature stone inscriptions of the six-syllable mantra and the Pabongka sky burial site.
Additional Ruins
On the eastern side of the rock are two more ruins:
- Tsongkhapa Lakhang: Once housed a statue of Tsongkhapa.
- Khato Lakhang: The statue it housed has been destroyed.
Scattered on the surrounding slopes are caves believed to have been used for meditation by figures like Songtsen Gampo, Princess Wencheng, Princess Jincheng, and Nagarjuna (a 2nd-century Indian philosopher and founder of the Madhyamaka school of Mahayana Buddhism, whose teachings influenced the Gelug school of Tibetan Buddhism).
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