Nyenmo Monastery, originally built in 1910, is fully known in Tibetan as “Nyenmo Ri Namgyel Gaden Ling.”
It is located on the mid-slope of Nyenmo Mountain in Jianshe Township, Darlag County, about 29 kilometers from the county seat.
The monastery belongs to the Gelug tradition of Tibetan Buddhism and maintains close relations with Tralang Monastery in the same county and Rabgya Monastery in Maqên County.
Overview
The monastery was co-founded by the great practitioner Antong Geshe and the chief of the Angqin tribe, “Duo De.” It serves as a shared religious site for the three main tribes of Angqin, along with thirteen affiliated clans and twenty-five branches. It is also the first permanent monastery in the region.
Nyenmo Monastery is situated at the headwaters of the Yellow River, nestled among mountains and rivers. It is one of the eight major monasteries in Golog Prefecture, Qinghai Province. The site has all the auspicious features described in Tibetan texts: the mountain behind is white like crystal, appearing as powerful as a tiger, with a round white rock at its summit symbolizing the Vajra Palace of Sublime Speech. The surrounding mountains to the east, west, north, and south represent the four tantric activities of pacification, increase, magnetizing, and subjugation. The natural caves arranged in the mountain served as retreat sites for saints such as Gesar’s brother, Kacha Shakya, and are also gathering places for many enlightened dakinis and protector deities.
The name of the monastery was bestowed by the 13th Dalai Lama. Additionally, the Dalai Lama granted the monastery’s administrator a status equivalent to that of the administrator of Drepung Monastery.
The position of Drepung Monastery’s administrator is highly significant. According to Tibetan Buddhist tradition, the annual Great Prayer Festival in Tibet is jointly hosted by Drepung, Sera, and Ganden Monasteries. During the two-week-long event, the administrator of Drepung enjoys power equal to that of the Tibetan king.
Due to the extraordinary merits and auspicious signs of the monastery, the 9th Panchen Lama also visited to bestow his blessings.
In 1936, the 9th Panchen Lama came to Nyenmo Monastery to confer initiations such as the Kalachakra empowerment. He also issued an official decree recognizing the position of the monastery’s administrator, making it binding for both Tibetan and Han devotees.
Structure and Location
The monastery is grand in scale, with four assembly halls, three protector deity chapels, and dedicated retreat houses for monks.
In the small assembly hall, there are many precious thousand-year-old statues of the Buddha and sacred objects gifted by the Panchen Lama and other accomplished masters. During the Cultural Revolution, the local faithful protected these treasures from harm.
The main assembly hall is magnificent and elaborately decorated, with prayer flags of fine quality and beautifully adorned pillars with intricate lotus designs. The walls are adorned with golden thangka paintings of Buddha images.
Inside the assembly hall stands a statue of Je Tsongkhapa, known as the “Liberation upon Seeing” statue. This was built by Angqin Dorje Tulku in 2002 to accumulate merit for sentient beings.
In spring and summer, the monastery is surrounded by the verdant grasslands under a clear blue sky. The vast meadow in front of the monastery is dotted with yellow flowers, and herds of cattle and sheep roam freely, creating a paradise-like scene.
A pristine, hada-like river winds through the grassland, resembling the Yin-Yang symbol of Taiji from Han Chinese culture.
The Panchen Lama highly praised the auspicious features of this place, and it later became known as “Panchen Sertang,” meaning “Panchen’s Golden Path.”
Debate (Dialectics)
Each year, the monastery hosts a debate conference.
Debating is a traditional method used by Tibetan monks to study Buddhist scriptures. The debates can take the form of question-and-answer exchanges on Buddhist texts or discussions centered around a specific theme.
During these debates, not only can ordinary or confusing issues of Buddhist doctrine be resolved, but at times, monks may even experience sudden moments of enlightenment.
The debate scene is often very lively. The leading monk raises his voice as he questions his opponent, extending his left hand forward while raising his right hand above his head. In the moment his right hand sharply slaps the left, he throws out the question, demanding a response from the other side.
When debates heat up, both sides speak eloquently and continuously, and when key points are reached, the entire assembly of monks cheers enthusiastically.
The gestures in debate have symbolic meanings: raising the right hand signifies the liberation of all sentient beings from the sea of suffering, while the left hand turning downward and resting implies the closing of the door to “Samsara (cyclic existence).”
Religious Ceremonies
Each year, the monastery holds various religious ceremonies. There are twelve major gatherings, six of which align with the ceremonies performed at Drepung Monastery, the largest Gelugpa monastery.
The Legend of the Monastery’s Construction
After “Duo De” inherited his father’s position as the chief of the Angqin tribe, he was determined to establish a formal monastery in the “Doba tribe” of Angqin. He repeatedly invited “Siti Chökyi Gyaltsen” from Kathok Monastery to select a site. Eventually, Siti Chökyi Gyaltsen and Lama Langzhu selected the “Jindu region” of Darlag County as the location, and a tent monastery was established. It was agreed that the future main monastery of the Doba tribe would be built there.
Several years later, Duo De sent messengers once again to request Siti’s help in building the monastery. After waiting six years with no response, Duo De decided to invite a master from Kumbum Monastery.
The master, Geshe Jampel Rolpai Lodro, arrived from Kumbum Monastery and reminded Duo De and his brothers that the Nyingma tradition had been influential in the tribe for a long time, and proper consultations should be held before establishing a Gelugpa monastery.
Duo De agreed with the advice and convened over 50 influential lamas and tribal leaders from 12 affiliated tribes. They all consented to build the monastery on Nyenmo Mountain.
Founder
Nyenmo Monastery was founded at the end of the 19th century by “Jampel Rolpai Lodro,” a master from Kumbum Monastery.
Jampel Rolpai Lodro was a highly learned figure in the Golog region at the time and held the “Geshe” degree, which is the highest academic title in Tibetan Buddhism. He authored several religious and cultural works, and woodblock prints of his writings can still be found in Lhasa. He spent his final years in Tibet and passed away in Lhasa, where he was known as the “Amdo Lama.”
Jampel Rolpai Lodro reincarnated three times. The second incarnation, Zhi Gesanglo, was born in 1903 and was known for his poetry, passing away in 1957. The third incarnation, Chuezhihe, currently resides at the monastery.
Before 1958, the monastery was under the Upper Moba Tribe, with a main assembly hall, a meditation center, and a large kitchen. It had four prayer halls, 76 monk residences, and housed 63 monks. During large gatherings, the number of monks could reach around 200. There were seven tulkus (reincarnate lamas), including Poba and Zhanluo Zhian.
In October 1980, the monastery was reopened. Currently, it has one assembly hall with 12 rooms, 26 monk residences with 64 rooms, 30 cattle, 154 monks, and 22 tulkus (including seven self-recognized reincarnations).
The monastery houses a copper statue of Amitayus, gifted by the 9th Panchen Lama, standing 2 feet tall, which serves as the primary statue of the monastery.
Additionally, there is a recently acquired gilded copper statue of Shakyamuni Buddha, standing 9 feet tall.
The monastery also has gilded copper stupas, each about 4 feet tall, containing relics of Jampel Rolpai Lodro and Gesang Lo.
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