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View spots in Kham

Xisuo Tibetan Village

January 5, 2024 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Xisuo Tibetan Village is located at the intersection of National Highway 317 from Chengdu to Barkam and Provincial Highway 210 from Zhuokeji to Xiaojin, about 8 kilometers from the town of Barkam. It is situated at an altitude of around 2660 meters and is separated from Zhuokeji Guan-zhai by a stream called Nazu Gully.

Xisuo Tibetan Village wood for winter
the small alley
Xisuo Tibetan Village old bridge
Xisuo Tibetan Village ca ca
Xisuo Tibetan Village local villager's house

Brief

During the historical period of local chieftains, Xisuo Village was known as “Gan-qiang-ba” in Zhuokeji, which means “street of Zhuokeji.” At that time, the residents were mostly the Koba (messenger) of the Zhuokeji chieftain, as well as merchants and folk craftsmen. After 1950, this area was designated as a group within Xisuo Village, and the current residents are mostly descendants of the original messengers, merchants, and folk craftsmen of the chieftain.

The chieftain of Xisuo was one of the famous 18 chieftains of Jiarong in western Sichuan. At the end of the Qing Dynasty (1616 AD – 1912 AD), due to the chieftain “Si-bi-deng-nian” being involved in the “Gelug Pa Religion” and having no heirs, in 1912, the son of the Wenchuan Wasa chieftain “Suo-guan-ying,” succeeded to the position.

Architecture

The official village gate faces southwest, and the residential buildings are shaped like watchtowers, also known as “diaolou”. The windows on each floor are smaller on the outside and larger on the inside, with intricately designed window frames featuring carving, painting, and colorful techniques, reflecting strong Tibetan ethnic characteristics.

The walls surrounding the houses are built with pieces of stone and bound together with yellow clay. The walls are as thick as 1 meter and are constructed using the method of inward incline and outward straight, with craftsmen relying solely on their experience to build the stone walls neatly, with sharp edges and a narrow top and wide base. The entire wall is under compressive stress and serves as the main load-bearing structure of the building. In addition, the mutual support and convergence of the internal wooden structure beams make the entire building have a smaller footprint at the base, a larger footprint at the top, a strong internal center of gravity, and high stability.

At the highest point, the corners of the watchtower form sharp angles, creating a sense of grandeur. The edges of the highest stone walls are thickened to avoid a flat appearance, enhancing the three-dimensional feel. The roof is divided into two parts, with the front half being flat, surrounded by low walls on three sides, while the back half forms a sloping mountain shape, covered with stone slabs or tiles.

The entire Tibetan village is comprised of three-story stone buildings, with the ground floor used for raising livestock, the second floor for the kitchen and living quarters, and the third floor for the scripture hall and guest rooms. This type of watchtower not only provides warmth in winter and coolness in summer but also represents the traditional architectural style of the Jiarong ancestors, who “built rooms with stones.” The entire village is neatly arranged, with a sense of order and a layout that looks like a well-fortified ancient castle when viewed from a distance.

When viewed from a distance, one will be amazed to find that Xisuo Tibetan Village bears a striking resemblance to the “Huayi” pattern in the Tibetan Eight Auspicious Symbols (resembling the “Endless Knot,” representing the heart of Shakyamuni Buddha).

The distinct, angular stone buildings, combined with the surrounding steep mountains and cliffs, create a natural environment that is harmoniously integrated. The pathways paved with bluestones lead into the village, connecting each household tightly together. The vibrant totems, red tiles, and fluttering prayer flags add a touch of mystery to this place.

Climate

The climate here belongs to the plateau continental monsoon climate, with distinct dry and rainy seasons. The four seasons are not clearly defined, and most areas do not experience summer. There is abundant sunshine, significant temperature differences, and frequent strong winds during the dry season. The average annual temperature is 8-9°C, with an annual rainfall of around 753 millimeters and over 1500 hours of sunshine. The frost-free period lasts for approximately 120 days.

Filed Under: View spots in Kham

 Zhuokeji Chieftain’s Residence

January 5, 2024 by Tibetan Trekking Travel Leave a Comment

Zhuokeji, meaning “supreme” in Tibetan, was the former residence of the Zhuokeji chieftain. The Zhuokeji chieftain was granted the position after the first “Battle of Da-xiao-Jin-chuan” in the year of 1748 AD (13th year of the Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty). In the year of 1749 AD (14th year of Qianlong reign of the Qing Dynasty), the chieftain was given an official seal for the “Chang-guan Office.” The town has a total area of 298 square kilometers, consisting of three villages: Chami, Xisu, and Nazu.

Zhuokeji building
Zhuokeji full view
Zhuokeji main entrance
Zhuokeji front view
Zhuokeji main
Zhuokeji mark
Zhuokeji painting
Zhuokeji right wing
Zhuokeji left wing

Overview

The Zhuokeji chieftain’s residence is located at an altitude of 2700 meters, adjacent to National Highway 317, at the high ground where the Soma River and Xi-suo River meet. It is also the intersection of the roads from Barkam to Chengdu and from Barkam to Xiao-jin, 8 kilometers from the county town and 354 kilometers from Chengdu.

Meaning

The chieftain’s residence, also known as the chieftain’s office or mansion, served as the official office of the chieftain and the living place for the chieftain and his family. It was the political center within the chieftain’s jurisdiction and a symbol of the chieftain’s power and status.

The start & current situation

The Zhuokeji chieftain was first appointed in the 23rd year of the Yuan Dynasty (1286 AD), with Si-ta-beng as the first chieftain. In the 15th year of the Qing Dynasty’s Qianlong reign (1750 AD), due to meritorious service in the Battle of Dajinchuan, the chieftain’s position was elevated to the Chang-guan Office. The chieftaincy lasted for 665 years and was succeeded by 17 generations.

The existing chieftain’s residence was initially built in 1918, destroyed by a fire in 1936, and rebuilt at the original site by the 16th chieftain, Suo-guan-ying, in 1938.

Architecture and structure

The Zoukexi Chieftain’s Residence was built in the Qing Dynasty (1616 AD – 1912 AD), with the buildings facing northeast to southwest, comprising four enclosed courtyard buildings in the east, west, south, and north. The floors all feature Han-style corridors, with Han-style floral windows and Jiarong-tibetan-style window decorations on the outside of the corridors.

The entire official residence covers an area of 1500 square meters, with a layout mimicking the structure of a Han-style courtyard. The main building in the north has a pseudo-six-story structure, while the east and west wing rooms are five stories high, with a courtyard in the middle. In total, there are 63 large and small rooms and exhibition halls.

The architectural scale is enormous, grand, and exquisitely constructed, incorporating the ancient architectural style of the Jiarong Tibetan stone towers. It features a bracketed structure without using a single nail or rivet, showcasing superb architectural artistry.

Within the official residence, the Jiarong cultural exhibition area is mainly concentrated in some buildings on the first and fourth floors, divided into 12 exhibition halls including a kitchen, prayer flag room, Sheji room, Yin Ting room, brewing room, and clothing room.

The second floor is mainly a red cultural exhibition hall, with a total of 11 exhibition rooms. The third floor mainly showcases the chieftain culture.

Some rooms on the fifth and fourth floors serve as a religious cultural exhibition hall, featuring eight exhibition rooms including a scripture hall, Red Temple, Yellow Temple, Longevity Temple, Lion-faced Kungkong Temple, fasting room, and monk’s residence.

Filed Under: View spots in Kham

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